- ANNIES’ ROOM: The number 1.
- ARROWS, ARRAS: Darts.
- BABY TON: A score of 95, usually by scoring five 19’s.
- BAG O’ NUTS: A score of 45.
- BARREL: The part of a dart you grip, right behind the point.
- BASEMENT: The double-3.
- BREAKFAST: A score of single 5, single 20, single 1 in a game of x01.
This was based on the typical price of a bed-and-breakfast, 26 pence.
- BUCKET OF NAILS: Landing all three darts in the 1’s.
- BUCKSHOT: When you’re darts land wildly all over the board.
- BULL: The center of the board.
- BULLSEYE: The center of the board.
- BUST: Hitting more than needed in an X01 game, and the score doesn’t count.
- C: In a Cricket game this refers to high scores base on the number of darts scored. For example a triple-20, single-20, single-20 would be called a C-5 because “5 darts” were scored with three darts.
- CHUCKER: A player who just “chucks” the darts at the board, doesn’t aim or care.
- CIRCLE IT: When a player scores a single digit (less than 10) with three darts, his team-mates would shout out “Circle it!” to the scorekeeper to highlight the terrible throw.
- CLOCK: The dart board.
- CORK: The center of the board. This comes from the cork in the end of a keg where it is tapped. The ends of kegs were used for targets in the begining of darts.
- DEAD-EYE: 3 double bulls in 1 turn.
- DIDDLE FOR MIDDLE: A throw to see who gets one dart closer to the bullseye to determine who shoots first in the game.
- DOUBLE: The thin outer ring of the board, it usually counts for two times the number hit.
- DOUBLE IN: A double is needed to start the game.
- DOUBLE OUT: A double is needed to win the game.
- DOUBLE TOP: The double 20.
- DOUBLE TROUBLE: Not being able to hit the double needed to win the game.
- DOWNSTAIRS: The lower portion of the board, usually in reference to the 19’s in a game of x01.
- EASY IN: A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring.
- FEATHERS: The “wings” at the end of a dart that make it fly straight.
Also known as dart flights or dart feathers.
- FEATHERS: The number 33.
- FLIGHTS: The “wings” at the end of a dart that make it fly straight.
Also known as dart feathers or dart wings.
- HAT TRICK: A score of three bullseyes.
- HOCKEY: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from.
- ISLAND: The actual scorable area of a dart board (anywhere inside the outer doubles ring). If you miss, your “Off the island”.
- LEG: One game of a match.
- MATCH: Three games, three legs of darts.
- MAD HOUSE: The double-one, because it can drive you crazy trying to hit one in a game of X01.
- MIDDLE FOR MIDDLE: A throw to see who gets one dart closer to the bullseye to determine who shoots first in the game.
- MONGER: A person who deliberately scores many more points than needed to win the game.
- MUGS AWAY: Loser of the previous game goes first in the next game.
- MURPHY: A score of single-5, single-20, single-1 in a game of x01.
Based on Murphy’s Law.
- OCHE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from.
- POINT MONGER: A person who deliberately scores many more points than needed to win the game.
- POPCORN: When the darts land so close to each other, they knock their flights out.
- RIGHT CHURCH, WRONG PEW or RIGHT HOUSE, WRONG BED: When you a double or triple, but the wrong number.
- ROBIN HOOD: When you shoot a dart into the shaft of another.
- SHAFT OR STEM: The part that attaches to the dart barrel that hold the flight.
- SHANGHAI: A score of a single, double and triple in the same number.
- SHUT OUT: When you lose a game without ever scoring in it.
- SKUNKED: When you lose a game without ever scoring in it.
- SLOP: Darts that land not where you wanted them.
- SPIDER: The metal web that divides the dart board.
- SPLASH: Darts that score, but not where you wanted them.
- STRAIGHT IN: A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring.
- THREE IN A BED: Three darts in the same number.
- THROW LINE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from.
- TOE LINE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from.
- TON: A score of 100 in a game of x01.
Scores over 100 would be called a “ton-whatever”.
EG: A ton-thirty would be a score of 130.
- TRIPLE: The thin inner ring of the board, it usually counts for three times the number hit.
- UPSTAIRS: The upper portion of the board, usually in reference to the 20’s.
- WIRE: Darts that miss where you aimed but on the other side of the spider.
- X: A double 1 out.
One of the most frequently asked questions we have had over the past years is in reference to dartboard mounting measurement and correct height and distance the dartboards needs to be placed from the OCHE. Oche pronounced ‘Okey’, is often referred to as the ‘throwing line’, ‘throw line’ or ‘toe-line’. The oche is the distance marker from the face of the dartboard where a player stands, with their toe or foot on or behind the Oche, not over it, whilst throwing their darts.
If you have just taken delivery of a new dartboard you will find the package contains a little plastic bag full of little hardware tid bits and screws. This is the dartboard mounting kit. If you have purchased or been given a second hand dartboard more than likely will need to purchase a new dartboard mounting kit unless the people you got the dartboard from were nice enough to supply the original mounting kit as well. If you weren’t supplied a dartboard mounting kit, don’t despair, any good dart supply shop will have dartboard mounting brackets available as a spare part. These spare dartboard mounting brackets not only replace original damaged or missing brackets, but also allows you to have your dartboard mounted in different areas of your home – inside during winter, outside during summer! 🙂
The standard dartboard mounting kit includes a wall mount fixing bracket, short stubby dartboard screw, leaf springs, leaf spring nails or tacks and long wall bracket fixing screws. First nail the dartboard alignment and balancing leaf springs to the back of the dartboard 7 1/4 inches (180mm) from the centre screw hole and at the 20, 8 and 10 number segments. Holding the dartboard on its edge will make it easy to pencil mark the 20, 8 and 10 positions on the back of the dartboard. The leaf springs act as little alignment and balance shock absorbing stabilisers so the dartboard doesn’t bang and slam against the wall every time it is hit by darts.
(Please Note: Modern high quality dartboard such as the Winmau’s Blade 5 dartboards are now using thumbwheel adjusters rather than leaf springs for dartboard alignment and mounting bracket balance. )
Next, screw in the shorter stubby screw to the centre of the back of the dartboard, you will see a pre-drilled hole so you don’t need to try and measure this position. Leave about 3-4 mm of thread between the back of the dartboard and the bottom of the screw head to allow for hooking into the dartboard mounting bracket. If necessary, you can adjust the screw depth once the mounting bracket is in place.
Depending on where you are going to mount your dartboard you will need either 2 x wall plugs for a solid brick wall, or suitable fixings for a dry wall or plasterboard wall. These are available from you local hardware store. Measure 5 foot 8 inches (173cm or 1.73 meters) from the floor and put a pencil mark at the measurement. Hold the dartboard mounting bracket against the wall with the bottom of the ‘U’ cut-out about 2mm below the pencil mark. Mark the 2 wall bracket mounting hole positions on either side of the ‘U’. Drill small pilot holes to avoid mis-drilling the holes then the wall plug holes for the mounting bracket. Insert wall plugs or dry wall fixings and then using the 2 long screws, supplied in the mounting kit, fix the mounting bracket into position with the flat side of the bracket against the wall.
Place the dartboard back centre screw in the U cut out of the mounting bracket and check for stability. The board should be a snug fit against the wall and without any wobble. If necessary you can adjust the dartboard back mounting screw to achieve a firm and stable fit.
More robust plastic U dartboard mounting brackets are now available … The Ezy lock dart board mounting bracket has a round center piece that makes the task of rotating the dartboard as easy as 1, 2, 3!
Why do they use a U style mounting bracket system?
This allows you to easily rotate the dartboard to ensure all-round even wear. You can read more about this in our article, Extending the Life of your dartboard 10 fold!
Below you will find more information and diagrams on dartboard mounting distances and set-up.
In the standard game of darts, the dartboard is mounted so that the bullseye (centre of the dartboard) is 173cm or 1.73 meters (5 foot 8 inches) from the floor. The oche is located 237cm or 2.37 meters (7 foot 9¼ inches) from the actual face of the dartboard, not the wall the dartboard is mounted on, and is measured horizontally across the floor. The dartboard is mounted so that the number 20 is at the 12 o’clock position, or at the top position of the dartboard.
In instances where an accurate horizontal measurement from the face of the dartboard to the oche can’t be made, or if you simply want to double check the distance, the diagonal distance from the bullseye to the oche is used. The diagonal distance from the centre of the dartboard to the oche should be 293cm or 2.93 metres (9 foot 7 3/8 inches).
These dartboard height and throwing distance settings, or dartboard height and distance measurements, are the recognised world standard dartboard mounting and set-up specification as set by the World Darts Federation (WDO).
For all your dart accessories, dartboard mounting brackets and dart equipment visit your local online dart supplier:
Check out the range of darts, dartboards and darting accessories at your local regional online stores by clicking on the dartboard flag closest to your location!